Winter on the Farm

Spring is all about planting and hatching new life.  Summer is our busy growing and processing season.  Autumn focuses on the harvest and putting the garden to bed for the winter.  So, now what?

The shorter amount of daylight means the chickens, guineas, and turkeys spend less time outdoors (they are let out around dawn- 6:30ish AM and locked up at dusk- 5:00ish PM).  Even though the temperatures get very cold, the birds want out!  They don't mind the snow as long as they don't have to trudge through it (so, we snow blow their yard each and every storm).  I just keep an eye out for frostbite on the birds with the larger combs, especially the roosters.  A little petroleum jelly helps insulate the comb.

The bees have been "tucked in" for the winter and we will wait to check on them until January.  They will huddle together to keep the hive in the 50's-60's.  They will rotate positions so the bees on the outside of the cluster will move in for a while.  In late January, the bees will work together to bring the temperature up in order to start rearing brood.

In the garden, we still have kale, brussell sprouts, and carrots.  The brussell sprouts and kale are cold hardy and the carrots are under mulch.  The mulch will help prevent the ground from freezing allowing us to harvest fresh carrots throughout the winter.  Without the mulch, we would just have to wait until spring to harvest the delicious carrots (cold temperatures encourage the carrots to convert their starches into sugars making them sweeter).  Meanwhile, the garlic planted last month is also heavily mulched along with the perennials as they wait for spring.

In the house, we are enjoying the fruits (and veggies) of our labor.  During the growing season, we put food by for winter use.  Our pantry is lined with items we canned or dried months ago; and the freezers are stocked with our turkey, chicken, and homemade stock, along with fruit and veggies. We will use up the rest of the maple syrup made last year (and look forward to this coming sugaring season).  Sitting by the wood stove, enjoying warm, homemade, and homegrown food, we pour through the seed and hatchery catalogs which arrive regularly in the mail this time of year and are busy making plans for 2012.  Already, the calendar is quickly filling up!  Winter allows us a time to rest, but that doesn't mean we stop! 

Narragansetts

Last year, we raised turkeys for family and friends' Thanksgiving dinners and to stock our freezer for the winter.  To get the most bang for our buck, we ordered Broad Breasted Whites (all toms).  They arrived the third week in July.  We processed them the weekend before Thanksgiving and they were huge!  Our smallest was 28lbs and the largest was 37lbs!  While everyone raved about the flavor, we had some requests for smaller birds.  Also, my husband is not a huge fan of white birds.  He wanted something "more natural", more camouflaged.


This is a Broad Breasted Bronze tom.  Behind him, the lighter colored turkeys are Narragansetts.



So, this year, we ordered Broad Breasted Bronze (straight run) which arrived the third week of July.  These birds don't get quite as big as the BBW's, but the toms can come close.  Since we ordered straight run, we have some females who will remain smaller than the toms.  This will allow for a larger variety of sizes.

We also ordered Narragansetts (straight run).  Costly, at about $10 each as a day old poult, I decided to keep about 5 of them (3 best hens and 2 best toms) to add to our laying flock.  They can mate naturally unlike the Broad Breasted varieties.  So, hopefully next year, we will have some of our own turkey eggs to hatch.  If one of the turkey hens wants to go broody and hatch them, great.  If not, I have a few tried and true chicken hens who would be happy to do the job!  The rest of the Narragansetts will be processed with the BBB's- also adding to the variety of sizes.



Broad Breasted Bronze and Narragansett turkeys side-by-side "mid-song".



Why Narragansetts? 

• First, they are a larger heritage breed, weighing up to 17lbs for hens and up to 30lbs for toms. 

• Second, they are a cross between the Eastern Wild Turkey and another variety (probably Norfolk Blacks according to the American Livestock Breeds Conservancy).  It was a breed developed in the Narragansett Bay area of RI (officially recognized as a unique breed in 1874).  This convinced me that they are a hardy bird, able to withstand the weather here in Western MA. 

• Third, they are considered a "threatened" breed by the ALBC.  By raising them, I feel I am doing my part to help this variety continue. 

• Besides, almost every website I read stated they were known for their calm disposition, good maternal instincts, early maturation, egg production, and excellent meat quality.  Who doesn't want these desirable characteristics?  I was sold.

A beautiful, young Narragansett tom showing off his feathers.

Chicken Stock from Feet

     So, what do you do on an unexpected October snow day?  Make stock!  It helps warm up the house by adding heat and moisture, not to mention a wonderful aroma, as it simmers all day.  I have posted about "stocking up" before, but never went through the process.


     Here is how it is done:

1)  The feet were washed fairly well from tumbling in the feather plucker when the chickens were being processed.  Give them a rinse as needed.  Meanwhile, bring water to a boil in a stock pot.

2)  Submerge feet in the water in small batches for a few minutes.  This is to help loosen the skin. It is the same idea as removing the peel from tomatoes for processing. 

3)  The skin should come off fairly easy by rubbing the foot with your fingers.  Here are 2 different feet.  The skinless after picture belonged to a broiler and the one with skin was a year old rooster.  The young broilers don't have tough skin, so the skin on their feet comes off completely.  The rooster (who by the way made tasty soup, but needed to be simmered on low heat for about 10 hours) we culled from our laying flock had tougher skin, so the outer layer came off along with the outer layer of the spur.  This left an under layer of skin.  You could remove the spur completely if bothers you by clipping it off. 


Broiler- before





Broiler- removing skin







Broiler- after







Rooster- after



4)  Using kitchen shears, clip off the nails.  Do this by cutting the tip of each toe off.

5)  Now the feet are ready to make stock.  Put them in a clean pot large enough to hold them.  I add celery (stalks and leaves), carrots, onions, garlic, and a bay leaf to every stock.  Depending on what I have for herbs I may add a few sprigs of rosemary or thyme.  Ground herbs should not be added at this time since they will float and you will skim them off during cooking.  If you want to add them, wait until you have skimmed off any foam.  I may add a small amount of sea salt, but not much.  The salt will be added when I use the stock- just keep in mind, if the recipe calls for conventional, canned stock, you will probably want to add more salt than the recipe calls for since it is assuming some salt was already added from the canned stock.  When using the stock, add the salt in small amounts and taste test.

Fill pot with enough water to cover the feet and vegetables.

6)  Let the pot simmer- the longer the better!  Avoid a mess by not boiling it, so keep the heat low.  You should not have to stand over this pot all day!  Just let it do its magic and check on it every once in  a while.  I have started making stock in the afternoon and left it on low to barely simmer over night.  You may need to add water as it boils down and skim off foam which rises to the top.  This particular stock simmered for about 14 hours.

7)  When you feel it is done, remove from heat and let cool for a few minutes.  Strain into a bowl.  You may need to let the stock cool a bit more before putting into containers for storage.  If you cool completely in the refrigerator, you will see a fabulous, "Jello"-like stock.  This is due to the gelatin in the feet- gelatin is highly valued in quality stocks!  I will also skim off the small amount of fat which floats to the top.



Straining the stock.



Here is stock in a pint size, wide mouth canning jar- almost freezer ready.  I just want to scrape off the thin layer of fat on the top with a spoon.  Notice I left at least an inch of head space in the jar (for expansion)!

This is stock I put into a Pyrex bowl and placed in the refrigerator.  I was able to cut into it with a spoon!  Don't worry, it will liquefy once heated into a very luxurious stock.

Storage:

Some stock will stay in the refrigerator for use over the next few days.  The rest will need to be frozen.  I like to use pint sized, wide mouth canning jars.  The ones I use (Ball brand) are freezer safe- check the manufacturer's recommendations if you're using another variety and make sure they are wide mouth (allows for expansion during freezing without putting pressure on the jar causing it to crack).  These store nicely in the freezer door.  I use sticky labels to date them and specify which kind of stock it is (turkey and chicken stock look exactly alike).

 I also use Foodsaver bags (you have to make sure stock is completely cooled first).  I pour stock into a measuring cup, write the necessary information on the bag with permanent marker, pour in the stock, push out as much air as possible, then manually seal (don't use the vacuum seal!).  This allows me to lay the bags flat in the freezer- so they take up less space.  You can also pour in the stock, place bag into the freezer (in upright position) and allow to freeze, then seal (using vacuum seal).  The only problem is this makes bulky packages since it freezes in its upright shape and takes up too much room for my liking.  Ziploc bags would probably also work in the same way- but make sure they are well sealed before laying flat!

Chickens, Turkeys, and Guineas... Oh, My!

Where did everyone else go?  Mama and her keets checking out the door- won't be long before they head outside to explore!

This is the hectic time of year as we integrate the flock.   A few weeks ago, when we were moving the original flock into the new coop, the guineas moved in with Mama (their chicken mother).  Now, we have a group of younger chickens ready to move in.  They have been living in a portable pasture pen in the same yard as the main flock.  This way everyone can get to know each other, work out pecking order, but still have their own space as the process takes place.  Well, time has come and they need to move... I have turkeys which need that pen since the other pen is already occupied by a different group of turkeys and the two new pens aren't finished yet.  Besides, a few of those new chickens are now reaching 18 weeks old and may start laying any time (one is a leghorn pullet- known for maturing early).  These new pullets need access to nesting boxes which the portable pens do not have.  Plus, they will have many other hens modeling how to properly use these nesting boxes for the young ones.  Just as I can see the light at the end of the tunnel, and it seems that things may be settled for a while, I went and ordered more broilers (due to arrive August 23-25th)!  Here we go again!

A Buff Orpington hen ready to model good egg laying tips for the newbies!

Young Narragansett turkeys enjoying the sunshine!

Large Font

The next few posts are for my Mass. Ag. in the Classroom workshop.  In order for them to show up in a readable size on our TV screen, I need to use the largest font available.  Just in case you were wondering...

Feed

This is a general guide. The time frames may vary depending on which brand you use. Each manufacturer provides a guide on their packaging.  To see common brands, click the highlighted stages and you will be brought to different poultry feed websites for more information.

Chicks (0-6 weeks): Chicks have different nutritional needs than full grown chickens. Look for starter crumbles or starter mash. Medicated or unmedicated depends on you. Some people feel the medication rations give them peace of mind while others don’t want anything “unnatural”. If you are going to brood chicks in warm, humid weather, have a large number all at once, or won’t be on top of sanitation, you may want to consider medicated starter. Pathogens like coccidia love warm, humid weather, so if you raise chicks in late winter or early spring, you shouldn’t have to worry as much. Keep litter dry and waterers and feeders clean. Whenever you start introducing your chicks to anything other than feed (grass, vegetable scraps, etc.) you are going to need to provide them with grit. The grit acts like teeth in the chickens’ crops (regular rations do not require grit, they will break down on their own). Offer grit in a separate feeder so chickens can decide when they need it.

Chicks - Adolescents (6 to about 20 weeks): You may find a starter/grower ration which will allow you to skip this step. Any time you are switching feed, do so gradually! Gradually add grower rations until you are completely switched over (takes about a week or two). This feed will be fed until the birds are about 20 weeks old or until they first start laying (which ever comes first).

Layers: At 20 weeks or at first egg, you are going to switch from the grower feed to a layer feed (if you have males they will eat this as well). Again, make this a gradual change. You will also want to offer your chickens calcium at this time. Calcium needs change depending on age, diet, and health. Having a separate feeder allows the chickens to add more calcium to their diet when they need it.

Molting:  Chickens generally start to molt in the fall when daylight has started decreasing (to less than 12 hours per day). Pullets will usually not molt their first fall, so this will not apply to them. The chickens will start to shed their feathers and new feathers will grow in. A lot of energy will be put into growing new feathers, so egg production will usually drop. You can help your chickens by providing them with more protein (feathers are made up mostly of protein). Some people give a handful of cat food a few times a week or you can change to a higher protein diet like Purina’s Flock Raiser (has 20% protein instead of the usual 16% in most layer rations).

Vitamins and Electrolytes:  This is sold in powder form at feed stores. Generally the powder is added to food or water. Many hatcheries suggest using a vitamin pack to help get your chicks off to a strong start. You may also give your flock vitamins during times of stress or illness.

Scratch: This is like chicken candy. Since chickens tend to love scratch, it can be used to help train your chickens. Keep in mind that scratch is made up of a lot of corn (which will add fat onto birds) and too much scratch reduces their protein intake. This may be desirable for broilers (adding a nice layer of fat to keep the meat juicy when cooked) or roosters (who don’t need as much protein as hens); however, not so desirable for laying hens (often causing a reduction in egg production)- READ: fat, lazy hens!
In winter when energy needs go up (so extra calories are good), scratch is valuable in helping keep your birds warm. In summer, the extra calories are not needed, so reduce scratch or feed oats instead.

Why Keep Chickens?

1) Most people eat some type of chicken product (eggs and/or meat). Keeping your own chickens allows you to control the quality of those products. You know what your chickens eat, how they are treated, and whether they have access to the outdoors. You can be sure you are providing yourself, family, and friends with a superior product.

2) Chickens can make great pets. They take less time than most other common household pets (i.e. dogs and cats). Many chickens have been known to follow their owners around, want to sit his or her lap for petting, and are trainable (find a motivator). Plus, with so many varieties, they are pretty to watch in your yard.

3) Reduce your garbage with chickens!  Your flock will enjoy many kitchen scraps and garden scraps.  Instead of throwing a half-eaten dinner away, give it to the chickens along with the carrot peels, pepper seeds, and tomato tops from dinner prep.  Sure, many of these things could be composted, but chickens will also enjoy spoiled milk, yogurt, cheese and yes meat (I avoid chicken, but they will eat it)- all things you would not want to compost!  Also, when I garden, I would not compost weeds like purslane.  Instead, I throw it to the chickens who devour the omega-3 rich weed in seconds.  Good for them and good for me!

4) Chickens are adaptable. Contrary to popular belief, you don’t need a lot of land to have chickens. Chickens can be kept not only on farms, but in yards, and even on rooftops in large urban areas. They can do well with other animals (some animals, like dogs, may need some training first).

Chickens Now Allowed in Westfield (With Permit)

According to the Westfield News, residents in Westfield, MA can now keep chickens provided they acquire a special permit through the Planning Board.  Residents with at least 3/4 of an acre will be allowed to keep up to 6 hens and those with less will be allowed only 3 (no roosters).  The permit process will include a hearing where abutters will be allowed to voice any concerns.  The process also requires a coop design with at least 3 square feet per bird and a pen with at least 10 square feet per bird.  There also has to be a plan for how to deal with odor and insects.  The birds need to be kept 50 feet from property lines.

This is funny- obviously these people don't own chickens and don't know anyone who does (at least responsibly).  First of all, I do not get to have a say about my neighbors' annoying dogs who are left outside to constantly bark (which is more annoying than any noise a hen or rooster would make).  So, it is funny that neighbors should be able to weigh in on whether someone should have a few hens.  On top of that, no one is going to walk their chickens to go to the bathroom in a neighbor's yard (yet another plus).  Second, the coop plans are silly.  If someone had a compact, mobile design (as is popular/trendy), it would not fit the city's requirements.  This is a shame because it would be healthier for the chickens and the yard they are kept in (provided they are actually moved on a daily basis).  Moving allows the chickens to have fresh grass and keeps them from developing a dusty, dirt-packed yard.  They would provide a natural fertilizer (hopefully cutting down on the chemicals people put on their grass which then washes into our water supply); not to mention, this would keep the insects and odor problem under control because there would be no build up of manure in one concentrated spot (thereby making it a non-issue).  The requirements follow old-school farming practices which are not in the best interest of the animals or people.

These people need to learn more about how to keep chickens successfully in your backyard before they pass such backward rules!  This poor design sets up would-be chicken owners to fail or work way harder than they need to.   Perhaps this is a step in the right direction, but certainly not a win for the city of Westfield. 

Stocking Up

So, who doesn't want to boil gallons of chicken stock in 80-90 degree weather?  Did I mention the stock is being made using chicken feet?  Okay, most people would probably pass, but not us. 

Our first batch of meat chickens for the year are currently being processed which means an excess of feet for stock!  We whole heartedly believe if you are going to take an animal's life to feed yourself, you need to respect the value of that animal by using everything possible.  Necks and feet are set aside for stock while organ meats usually are boiled for our dogs (although we have found people who have wanted the gizzards and others who wanted the livers). 

The neck and feet stocks are prepared separately.  This is because Allan, my husband, will painstakingly pull the meat off of the necks to be used in soup and the stock from the feet (if refrigerated) has an interesting, gelatinous texture (but great flavor).

The stock is used not only for soups.  Each time I make couscous or rice, I use stock instead of water. 

This is one freezer door with canning jars and plastic containers filled with stock.

The middle compartment of our standing freezer is all chicken stock in foodsaver bags.  To the right are more bags and jars of stock next to the tomato sauce.

This is the freezer door to our regular refrigerator filled with stock!

Raised Beds in Garden

My husband and brother-in-law started putting in raised beds in our garden. 

The Bees!

Here is where we set up our 5 new hives!  This was the first day since they arrived where the whole day was not a wash-out!



This is the first bee we caught in action out in the orchard!

We're All a Buzz

This may sound like a strange Christmas present, but this year my husband gave me beekeeping classes.  The Hampden County Beekeepers Association offers a class every year starting in January and ending in April.  I found this out after I took a summer course through Mass Ag in the Classroom (which had a one-day session on beekeeping). 

Bees seemed like the next logical step for us. They will do their fair share of work pollinating our orchard, garden, flowers, and not to mention wild blueberries, blackberries, and raspberries; however we started going to the bi-weekly classes with an agreement that this did NOT mean we were definitely getting bees.  So, you can imagine my surprise during the third class, when I suggested my husband go talk to the man who was selling bees for April, I was told he already ordered bees- and by the way this was my birthday present (again, may seem odd to most, but not to me).  The best part is we are not just starting off with one or two hives, but FIVE- yep, five. 

The following week eight boxes were waiting for me when I got home from work.  They contained everything we need for our 5 hives including 10 brood boxes, 10 honey supers, and 200 frames which all need to be assembled.  Good thing he ordered early (we won't pick up the bees until May)!!





May 17, 2011
Saturday morning we woke up at 4:40 am!  We had to get out the door for just after 5:00 so we could pick up our nucleus hives (or nucs for short) by 7:00 am.  Our 5 nucs made it home safely and were "unpacked" into brood boxes which are set up on a table Allan built.  They have a nice view of our orchard and garden.  The only problem is that it won't stop raining!!  It has rained every day since Saturday (it is now Tuesday) and has been in the 50's.  The weather forecast is calling for rain into the weekend!  Our poor bees.  I can't wait to see them in action.  The apple trees are waiting!

Tilling the Garden

A few weekends ago, we started to get the garden ready for raised beds (last year we used rows).  I think the chickens were more excited than we were.  They followed Allan around as he tilled.  They scratched up some nice, juicy worms.

Here, Nubby is busy searching for her next snack in the soft soil:

Our goal for this garden is to never have to till again!  We have a raised bed at home and love it.  We add fresh compost every year and rotate the crops and plan to do the same here.  Allan also saved old windows from our house to turn into cold frames!

Kosher Kings

Our Kosher Kings are enjoying the spring weather!

Pastured Eggs Not the Same As Conventional

Studies have shown that not only are the eggs produced in a more humane environment, they are healthier.  Duh!!  If you look at grass vs. feed, grass looks healthier.  Chickens, by the way, are NOT vegetarians even though a large chicken producer (meat) would like you to think (since they advertise that their chickens are feed an all vegetarian diet).  What they mean is that they aren't feeding slaughterhouse "leftovers" to the chickens- you know what is left after the rest is sent to the grocery stores or what wasn't healthy enough to make it to the grocery stores).  Anyways, eating grass and bugs along with other plant material is obviously a more natural and nutritious diet.  Check out this article on Mother Earth News:


http://www.motherearthnews.com/Natural-Health/Health-Benefits-Free-Range-Eggs.aspx

What's Eating You?

Last year, we raised Cornish X chickens as our primary meat chickens (along with previously thinning out the flock by getting rid of excess roosters which we ate).  This year, we wanted to try Kosher Kings as our meat chickens.  It is not that we were completely dissatisfied with the Cornish X, we just wanted a more "authentic" chicken.  The X were mushy, lazy birds- not a "real" chicken by any means.  Well, if "real" means feisty and active, we found our chicken! 


The Kosher Kings love when I clean out their brooder.  They charge my hands and bite!  How ironic that they are biting me!  I guess it is only fair considering...