Feed

This is a general guide. The time frames may vary depending on which brand you use. Each manufacturer provides a guide on their packaging.  To see common brands, click the highlighted stages and you will be brought to different poultry feed websites for more information.

Chicks (0-6 weeks): Chicks have different nutritional needs than full grown chickens. Look for starter crumbles or starter mash. Medicated or unmedicated depends on you. Some people feel the medication rations give them peace of mind while others don’t want anything “unnatural”. If you are going to brood chicks in warm, humid weather, have a large number all at once, or won’t be on top of sanitation, you may want to consider medicated starter. Pathogens like coccidia love warm, humid weather, so if you raise chicks in late winter or early spring, you shouldn’t have to worry as much. Keep litter dry and waterers and feeders clean. Whenever you start introducing your chicks to anything other than feed (grass, vegetable scraps, etc.) you are going to need to provide them with grit. The grit acts like teeth in the chickens’ crops (regular rations do not require grit, they will break down on their own). Offer grit in a separate feeder so chickens can decide when they need it.

Chicks - Adolescents (6 to about 20 weeks): You may find a starter/grower ration which will allow you to skip this step. Any time you are switching feed, do so gradually! Gradually add grower rations until you are completely switched over (takes about a week or two). This feed will be fed until the birds are about 20 weeks old or until they first start laying (which ever comes first).

Layers: At 20 weeks or at first egg, you are going to switch from the grower feed to a layer feed (if you have males they will eat this as well). Again, make this a gradual change. You will also want to offer your chickens calcium at this time. Calcium needs change depending on age, diet, and health. Having a separate feeder allows the chickens to add more calcium to their diet when they need it.

Molting:  Chickens generally start to molt in the fall when daylight has started decreasing (to less than 12 hours per day). Pullets will usually not molt their first fall, so this will not apply to them. The chickens will start to shed their feathers and new feathers will grow in. A lot of energy will be put into growing new feathers, so egg production will usually drop. You can help your chickens by providing them with more protein (feathers are made up mostly of protein). Some people give a handful of cat food a few times a week or you can change to a higher protein diet like Purina’s Flock Raiser (has 20% protein instead of the usual 16% in most layer rations).

Vitamins and Electrolytes:  This is sold in powder form at feed stores. Generally the powder is added to food or water. Many hatcheries suggest using a vitamin pack to help get your chicks off to a strong start. You may also give your flock vitamins during times of stress or illness.

Scratch: This is like chicken candy. Since chickens tend to love scratch, it can be used to help train your chickens. Keep in mind that scratch is made up of a lot of corn (which will add fat onto birds) and too much scratch reduces their protein intake. This may be desirable for broilers (adding a nice layer of fat to keep the meat juicy when cooked) or roosters (who don’t need as much protein as hens); however, not so desirable for laying hens (often causing a reduction in egg production)- READ: fat, lazy hens!
In winter when energy needs go up (so extra calories are good), scratch is valuable in helping keep your birds warm. In summer, the extra calories are not needed, so reduce scratch or feed oats instead.